1. 22re Knock Under Load At High Rpm Calculator
2. 22re Knock Under Load At High Rpm 2
3. 22re Knock Under Load At High Rpm Light

This started the end of last week. This is a '94 Chevy non-Vortec 4.3L V6.When accelerating from stop it would stumble/bog/hesitate/almost die, like it wasn't getting any gas. 'When you see hoofprints, think horses. I'd still look long and hard at the knock sensor(s) and the wiring.

That's where the error code is being set. BTW, that engine may have two knock sensors, in series. A broken wire on the knock sensor connector will cause the 43 code, which is identical to disconnecting a sensor. I'd bet that on a 43 code the ECU is putting the engine in limp-home mode so of course it's going to run poorly. If you are getting the 43 code immediately after clearing the code, then that (to me) is a strong indicator that the problem is in a sensor or wiring, those wires are terribly brittle.Not that the O2 sensor or other sensors aren't problematic, but they aren't throwing out-of-range codes. I guarantee that the dealer will start by diagnosing the knock sensor circuit first.

This started the end of last week. This is a '94 Chevy non-Vortec 4.3L V6.When accelerating from stop it would stumble/bog/hesitate/almost die, like it wasn't getting any gas. Click to expand.If it throws a Knock Sensor code, it CAN'T be anything else. The best way to test this is by connecting the blue wire and a timing light, running it to about 2K RPM and hit a motor mount close to the sensor with a hammer.

You should see the timing dufus when you hit it and then go back to normal. You won't/shouldn't see any difference at idle because it can't dufus below base timing.The knock sensor is basically like a piezoelectric transducer- it changes vibration to electrical signal and acts like a microphone- it's passive.If you're looking at the injector cone without some way to do a kind of 'stop action', it's useless- your eyes can't react fast enough to see what could be a problem. Connect a timing light, remove the air cleaner and press the trigger- the intermittent flashing will show the cone almost like it's a still photograph. Rev it up while you do this and look for gaps- this is called 'tearing', as in tearing paper.You need to check fuel pressure, too- that alone can cause it to run lean when the pressure isn't sufficient at high RPM.GM fuel pump wiring harnesses have known problems- who installed the new(ish) ump and find out if the harness was repaired using a new pigtail. The terminal in the OEM plug becomes hot, melts the plastic retainer and over time, the metal becomes soft from heat-cycling.

This causes it to become loose on the pump's terminal and it can lose contact during vibration or position changes.How old are the cap and rotor? If you don't know, remove the cap and inspect it, as well as the condition of everything under the cap.

My 84 toyota truck engine 22r has a valve knock. When i start my truck i hear a loud knock coming from the head.do - Cars & Trucks question. Search Fixya. 88 Toyota 22r possible loud valve tap only under load. Adjusted valves twice all good. Ticking/knocking noise at high rpms under load Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by Slow302, Dec 14, 2015. Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Next Dec 14, 2015 #1. Possible a lifter is going and is starting to rattle under load. This sounds a lot like what I was experiencing in the summer. Click to expand.

If it's rusty. Clean it up and look at the pickup near the rotor cam- this can become coated with metal/rust particles and that affects the quality of the spark.Run it at night- make sure it's in a dark place and open the hood.

Increase the throttle position and look for 'lightning' near the spark plug wires and distributor cap. If you see any, replace the wires and if it's on the outside of the cap, replace that and the rotor. Cross-fire will cause all kinds of problems that seem like something else. If you don't see it, listen for an intermittent snapping sound that coincides with a slight or moderate stumble- this is a good indicator of cross-fire and it causes the voltage for spark from one cylinder to cause spark in the plug with the wire that's next to the one that's supposed to spark.

'When you see hoofprints, think horses. I'd still look long and hard at the knock sensor(s) and the wiring. That's where the error code is being set.

BTW, that engine may have two knock sensors, in series. A broken wire on the knock sensor connector will cause the 43 code, which is identical to disconnecting a sensor. I'd bet that on a 43 code the ECU is putting the engine in limp-home mode so of course it's going to run poorly. If you are getting the 43 code immediately after clearing the code, then that (to me) is a strong indicator that the problem is in a sensor or wiring, those wires are terribly brittle.Not that the O2 sensor or other sensors aren't problematic, but they aren't throwing out-of-range codes. I guarantee that the dealer will start by diagnosing the knock sensor circuit first.

Click to expand.It won't cause 'limp home' mode due to the wire being broken or a bad sensor. It 'listens' for normal engine sounds and if it picks up strong knock on hard acceleration or at high RPM, it retards the timing in discreet increments, until it reaches base timing.

This is in 5 degree increments, at least, in the case of marine engines prepared by Indmar for Mastercraft, Malibu, Supra/Moomba. I had a Chevy Silverado with the 5.7L TBI and when I replaced the starter, I found that the knock sensor's ceramic fitting had broken and the wire came off- it was sluggish, but it didn't knock excessively.

It did occasionally stumble, but it didn't ever go into limp mode- that's reserved for overheating, not bad sensors.If it stumbles badly on hard acceleration and has problems returning to stable idle speed from higher RPM operation, I would look at the IAC, which may be sluggish or inoperable. It shouldn't cause 'limp home' mode due to the wire being broken or a bad sensor. It 'listens' for normal engine sounds and if it picks up strong knock on hard acceleration or at high RPM, it retards the timing in discreet increments, until it reaches base timing.

This is in 5 degree increments, at least, in the case of marine engines prepared by Indmar for Mastercraft, Malibu, Supra/Moomba. I had a Chevy Silverado with the 5.7L TBI and when I replaced the starter, I found that the knock sensor's ceramic fitting had broken and the wire came off- it was sluggish, but it didn't knock excessively. It did occasionally stumble, but it didn't ever go into limp mode- that's reserved for overheating, not bad sensors.If it stumbles badly on hard acceleration and has problems returning to stable idle speed from higher RPM operation, I would look at the IAC, which may be sluggish or inoperable. I'd still look long and hard at the knock sensor(s) and the wiring. That's where the error code is being set.

BTW, that engine may have two knock sensors, in series. A broken wire on the knock sensor connector will cause the 43 code, which is identical to disconnecting a sensor.

I'd bet that on a 43 code the ECU is putting the engine in limp-home mode so of course it's going to run poorly. If you are getting the 43 code immediately after clearing the code, then that (to me) is a strong indicator that the problem is in a sensor or wiring, those wires are terribly brittle.Not that the O2 sensor or other sensors aren't problematic, but they aren't throwing out-of-range codes.

I guarantee that the dealer will start by diagnosing the knock sensor circuit first. Click to expand.If it's throwing the knock sensor code 43 then it could be either:1) The sensor is bad and the engine is not knocking.2) the sensor is good and the engine is knockingIn either case, the computer will ritard the ignition timing to try to compensate.

This may possibly be the cause of the poor running.Should the sensor be bad, then it could be as simple as buying a new knock sensor and your problem is solved. If the sensor is good, then there is some other reason why the engine is running poorly and causing the engine to knock, and IMO, the first two places I'd start to look are the CT sensor and the O2 sensor. If the CT sensor is reading high, then the computer will compensate by leaning the fuel mixture and this might cause both misfiring and knocking. If the O2 sensor is the culprit and it's misreading the fuel mixture as too rich, The ECU will attempt to compensate by leaning the mixture here as well.Regarding the limp home mode.

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This usually sets the engine into a 'fast idle only' state where the engine will only run at a fixed RPM. Attempting to accelerate faster will make the engine stumble.

If it's throwing the knock sensor code 43 then it could be either:1) The sensor is bad and the engine is not knocking.2) the sensor is good and the engine is knockingIn either case, the computer will ritard the ignition timing to try to compensate. This may possibly be the cause of the poor running.Should the sensor be bad, then it could be as simple as buying a new knock sensor and your problem is solved. If the sensor is good, then there is some other reason why the engine is running poorly and causing the engine to knock, and IMO, the first two places I'd start to look are the CT sensor and the O2 sensor. If the CT sensor is reading high, then the computer will compensate by leaning the fuel mixture and this might cause both misfiring and knocking.

22re Knock Under Load At High Rpm Calculator

If the O2 sensor is the culprit and it's misreading the fuel mixture as too rich, The ECU will attempt to compensate by leaning the mixture here as well.Regarding the limp home mode. This usually sets the engine into a 'fast idle only' state where the engine will only run at a fixed RPM. Attempting to accelerate faster will make the engine stumble. Click to expand.No hard acceleration, I'm been babying it, easy and gentle. It seemed better going down hill, but from a stop or on an incline it was ridiculous, and unsafe.I haven't heard the first knock or ping from it while accelerating or at speed.It might be a clogged cat, or something retarding the timimg which might set off the KS code, just guessing. It acts like it's not getting any gas, like more pedal = less gas.It has had a hot starting problem, three times this year and a few times last year.

22re Knock Under Load At High Rpm 2

It's always been 100+ outside AND a few minutes after a short drive, like while running errands. Drive 5-10 minutes, turn it off, won't start after 5-10 minutes. Have to wait longer and let it cool a little longer. After it started it ran fine, nothing at all like this current stuff.I dropped it off today and the mechanic called a few hours later.

22re Knock Under Load At High Rpm Light

I'll call him in the morning.